Biryani, Pulao, Pilaf, etc., are different kinds of flavored rice preparation with many variables, depending on the region they belong to. Nomenclature, spices, ingredients, rice varieties, cooking process and ingredient combinations change as we move across Central Asia, the Middle East, the Indian subcontinent and even certain parts of Africa. All claim that it originated in their region. But every kind of this most satisfying dish owes the credit to the local ingredients it contains, making each variant a unique representative of its respective place of origin.
However one aspect remains constant, across all variants: it is always a combination of rice & meat with other ingredients, dominated by the flavor of the meat, which is mostly the most prevalent locally.
Most vegetarian options though remain a sort of apologetic accommodation for the plant-eating humans of India, not wanting to remain deprived of a creation, believed to have originated in royal kitchens.
During my initial cooking days, I too believed that Biryani or Pulao cannot be imagined without meat. Achieving the optimum flavor balance with vegetarian combinations have been an iterative endeavors over the years, most of which ended up as experimental increments towards that sweet “umami” pedestal.
Finally, I struck gold after perfecting the Moradabadi Biryani, a variant that uses no red chili at all and depends on the spice-induced Yakhni (broth), created when boiling the meat (mostly goat) along with a brilliant yet subtle combination of whole spices and condiments. The second part of the inspiration came from researching the central Asian pilaf variants, some of which were found to include Chickpeas. The simple beauty of Chole Chawal also pointed towards the massive potential of our very own Kabuli chana.
So this is the outcome – A Kabuli Pulao cooked in the Moradabadi tradition held together by a string of subtle flavors created when a “potli” (cloth pocket) of masalas and other condiments are boiled along with the Kabuli chana. Some marinated Soya chunks add the required body and a feeling of fullness to this marriage of spice infused, long-grain Basmati rice with boiled chickpeas.
As a foundational technique, it boils down (pun unintended) to the art of cooking rice with just the right amount of moisture, resulting in this beautiful combination of a dish where every grain of rice is perfectly cooked to its full potential. The grains are moist yet remain separate, retaining juice without being sticky. Each oozing the fragrant liquid in which it took shape. The final result is achieved by cooking on “dum” (low heat) with a cloth layer firmly placed beneath the lid, preventing any steam from seeping back into the rice as condensation.
An accompanying spicy raita designed to cut through all the acidity with a tangy personality makes every spoonful complete.
This is all someone longing for Biryani needs, and it promises to satisfy their yearning palate without containing any meat.